John Deere 300 Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a search on our sight for 300 wiring diagram and the only thing I could pull up is this following thread that for some reasons I can not see the images and the links are dead.
300 Wiring Diagram
Anyone have a wiring diagram for a 300 they would share? Need it to get my 300 project reassembled.
If possible would someone share the wiring diagram with me here in this thread or via Pm if it is not allowed for copy wright reasons.
I have 2x 300 GT's I want to get running and both have previous owner wiring issues. I can post pics to show what I'm talking about in a bit. One for sure needs a new key switch and the wiring plug was cut off. This might be the case for both not sure.
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Looks like there is a serial number break. I don't see a seat safety in this one, so that might be the difference.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank you Charms. The problems were just as I had thought I remembered. Both tractors have the ignition switch plug cut off. The most recently purchased tractor has female spade connectors crimped onto the wires and plugged into the ignition switch while the other one has ring terminals crimped on at the key switches.
Most recent bundle deal tractor
Bundle deal from a few years back. I did not get a key with this one. Thinking i will try to drill out the lock cylinder first before I go replacing it with another.
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N2,
I have not had any 300 closed frame tractors (but did have a 317 once...) Are the keys used for the 300 unique to each of these individual ignition switches? My experience with the 'cut' keys of this style on other Deere products like my Gator is that they are all the same...
These are from three different machines and different decades, but all are identical. Gator, 322, & x495 IRRC.
Do you need a key for your switch, or is there a broken off key fragment left in the one you pictured?
I can send you a key -- just let me know where via a PM/Conversation.
Chuck
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110 - 318 all used the same key. The second key switch pictured does not look original. Could be from anything.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a key for the F935 I can try.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Keys that came with the F935 did not work. In the meantime since the weather is nice I decided to work on the new to me Honda 3 spd mower I got for free last summer to replace the old rust bucket honda mower. Gonna get it running today for sure. I just have to swap the pull string basket and clean the carburetor. It fired right up with a shot of starter fluid.
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Charms,
Yes the garden tractors from the 318 down used a key switch with stamped keys and they are all the same key.
But the "cut" keys on the 322 and other switches like those on the Gators are like the ones I showed above and the F935 key with the Deere logo on the head on the ring N2 pictured in his post #7 here.
However, the key switch shown above in this thread that has the ring terminals is not a Deere part (but may function properly for all I know...) It appears to be similar to one used on Bobcat machines like the 310, 440, etc and has a different cut key -- maybe try one of those keys.
Good luck N2 -- you can always replace the switch that is there now with a factory correct one...
Chuck
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thank you Chuck, one of my Uncles name was Chuck. He was the youngest out of 6 children from Iowa.
So anyway, my intentions are to replace the key switch for the older to me tractor with a factory switch but I needed the wiring diagram to sort out the wires and where they belong on the key switch since the connector plugs are missing.
I could follow the wires but my hopes were that the diagram would indicate which terminals each set of wires belongs to. I have not studdied the diagram yet but it looks like I should be able to get it figured out from the diagram.
Thanks again "thumbs up"
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok after studying the wiring diagram a bit I have come to realize I have two of the earlier serial numbered tractors. Fun fact: my most recently purchased tractor is the 228th tractor built in the 300 series tractors. That's pretty cool.
The other tractor is the 3927th tractor off the line.
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Chuck your knowledge and helpfulness on this site and others is amazing. That said it is with very mild meekness I hesitantly offer a correction to the six spade ignition shown above. In my experience it is the 5 spade cluster switch he needs and I think the wiring diagram confirms this. I have tried interchanging them without success. I have bought the 15$ ones off eBay and they work, for how many years is to be seen. I hate wires,.. cheers! B
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a brand new ignition switch floating around here somewhere. Not sure of the post layout though or where it is. Once I find it I should be able to use it. It was purchased for one of my many JD tractors. Getting the correct wiring to the key switch is half of the battle with bringing these back to life.
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Chuck your knowledge and helpfulness on this site and others is amazing. That said it is with very mild meekness I hesitantly offer a correction to the six spade ignition shown above. In my experience it is the 5 spade cluster switch he needs and I think the wiring diagram confirms this. I have tried interchanging them without success. I have bought the 15$ ones off eBay and they work, for how many years is to be seen. I hate wires,.. cheers! B
The switch is different but the key is the same.
I had a Jacobson that used the same key.
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JDGuy,
I am sorry if my image post of a representative key switch with flat formed key gave the wrong impression of that switch being correct for the specific 300 tractor under discussion in this thread, and noted the one shown was specifically for a 318. You are right that the similar looking key switch modules for Deere tractors may have different internals and you should always use the correct part for your specific tractor. By the way, the 318 does not use all of the terminals on the switch I posted above, as seen in the 318 manual, so it too is effectively a five terminal switch:
N2, If you have a switch you want to use, verify it has the correct "truth table" per the wiring diagram. The external appearance is not enough, so use a meter to confirm the connections per key position.
Chuck
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I keep one of those stamped out JD keys on the set of keys I wear on my belt loop so I always have a key on me and don't have to go digging around for one.
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Thanks for the explanation and diagrams. I saved a screenshot. I have a 300 I'm trying to save from going to scrap I overpaid for and dug into the ignition yesterday. I got it to turn over yesterday by key but no juice to the coil as well as zero compression. Not looking good for the 300,...
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
N2, If you have a switch you want to use, verify it has the correct "truth table" per the wiring diagram. The external appearance is not enough, so use a meter to confirm the connections per key position.
View attachment 264645
Chuck
I will do that thank you 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I could not find the new switch so I bought a new one. Part number AM103286
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I want to say thanks again for the wiring diagram. I got the older to me but larger serial numbered tracktor to start. It's only been a couple years now since I purchased it. Probably close to 3 years or so. Anyway it was an easy fix. Both tractors came with a 3 pth and 3pt attachments. The earlier tractor looks like its gonna take a little bit more love to get it going.
I still have to put a different ball joint on the front of this now running 300 befor i can take it for a little spin around the block
Vid of how it runs.
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I swapped out a tie rod from a 317 parts machine and soaked the spindles with pb blaster for a few minutes then started working the front wheels back and forth until they were loosened up. I worked them back and forth with the inner tie rods undone from the steering so I could feel the resistance by hand.
Put some air in the tires and removed the iv fuel tank that I was using temporarily and put the fuel line from the tank back on the filter right before the fuel pump. Next I put some gas in the tank and started it up to see if the fuel pump was going to be able to siphon gas up from the tank up to the float bowl. It worked like it should. I was a happy camper but it was short lived. That's because the fuel line came loose at the tank and started dumping fuel out. Had to pull the rear fenders to fix that problem then put it all back together for it's maiden voyage.
Right away I noticed the transmission was slipping when I tried going up hill in reverse. I'm hoping it is just low on hydro fluid. I'll have to check that tomorrow as I was done for the day at that point. I did try to check the fluid level but the dip stick only had a metal coil from what appears to be an old choke cable attached to the cap. I'm going to pull the cap out of the other 300 and use it in this one to see where it registers and go from there.
Posted by: barrybarrygselles0251477.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.wfmachines.com/threads/need-a-wiring-diagram-for-a-300.136719/